Saturday, May 7, 2011

Paperdoll Styling 101: FAMQ VI



The answer is... don't break too much.

A few weeks ago I was able to shadow my male fashion icon.  I learned a lot in a few days... like what the hell a "break"in a pant was.  Don't make fun! I was only in fashion design for one semester. 
 I am slowly learning everyday that... I didn't get a lot of the memos everyone else did in life (like proper terminology.. it's embarrassing).  So whatever.

So if you don't know what "a break in a pant" is, it's where your pants fall on your shoes, creating a horizontal crease in the fabric across the front of your pant leg (thanks!).  The heavier the crease the more of a chump you look like. tehehe... I'm such a B.  BUT I'M BEING HONEST!
Ultimately the cleaner the lines are throughout your ensemble the sharper and more put together you look.


Nicely done...
Proper Tailoring

In this post we will discuss the tailoring of both denim and dress pants.

The most important thing to remember when looking for pants is the fit... the fit that is appropriate for you.  Then you concentrate on the tailoring.  


Khakis with little to no break

No pleats PLEASE!  
Take those.. along with your brown dad loafers and throw them out.

Creases?... yes please!! A creased pant looks so nice.

The cuff.  This one is tricky... because if done on the wrong fit you look like an old man.  
The leg of the pant needs to be a slim fit and then your 2" cuff is appropriate. There should also be very little or no break.. or cuff them yourself and let your ankles hang out, have a "high water" look, which I think is adorable. 

So.. Don't do this:

Do this...

Charles Gariepy wears cuffed, green One by Levis pants over Dockers shoes. The latest look for young men is a rolled cuff just above the ankle. “The roll has to feel a bit unintentional,” said Jim Moore of GQ.
Casual Cuff

When getting your pants tailored you should be wearing the shoes that you would wear with the pant.  The break of your pant varies with different shoes.  

In 2011 your pants should have a very little break.


Let's get this straight.. bum around jeans are very different from designer jeans.
Bum around jeans come in specific lengths like 30"32" while designer jeans come in just waist size and have a standard 34" inseam.  This is because you have to.... take a guess, I dare you........... yes! Get them tailored!!! No one likes baggy floppy looking jeans.  

And don't get me wrong! 
I love my boyfriend in his Levi's.. but you should, after the age of 19, own a nice pair of jeans.

Oh and "wide leg" or "relaxed fit" makes me gag. The trimmer the pant the better you look.

Rogan, Puck Jean in Army Brown
Similarly to your dress pants and khakis.. your denim should be slim fit.  Slim fit is not your "emo boy so tight you can see your whole package" fit.  No.  Slim fit grazes the contour of your bod, resulting in clean lines which make you more attractive!  

Again, the break varies with the shoe.. but with denim you're going to have a little more of break than your dress pants or khakis. But still... keep it clean.

Cuffed Denim

Your jeans should never touch the ground or cover most of your shoe.  It's all about proportion and balance.  The perfect proportions and balance come from when you stay true to your body type and shape.
You know who would look great in slim fit denim cuffed up with some vans? My brother. You know who doesn't listen to me? My brother.

Another thing to consider regarding tailoring is that the tailor can pretty much touch up everything and anything.  So don't just focus on pant length.  Adjust the seat a little... make your back side as pretty as your front! Seriously though.. your pants should accentuate your toosh! Or if you like the general look of the pant but they are a little too roomy, have them slimmed down and taken in through the leg!
  The tailor is your friend!!!

***If you learn anything from these posts please have it be the IMPORTANCE OF TAILORING!!! 

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